Survivalism: The Perfect Prepper House?
Guest article, by ‘NRP’…
Inside: The latest articles from the prepper/survivalist world
First a small introduction, I have been in the construction industry for well over 40 years, I’m a 4th generation “construction-dude”, and currently am working at a very successful company as Senior Estimator and Project Manager. I have personally/physically built my own homes (4 in total) over the past few decades and am now considering a 5th somewhere in “BFE” as it has been said. I also have been a “prepper” as far back as I can remember, even though it was not called that. I fully consider Prepping as a life-style and to be honest I would not have it any other way. I want to say that I’m not worried about a lot of what some fear mongering Blogs portray. As someone a LOT smarter than I once said, “There is nothing to fear but fear itself”, if you prepare, then that’s all you can really do.
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Emotions, Ups and Downs; Yes you’ll be so dang excited about building a house/home you won’t sleep for weeks on end, THEN about 1 month into construction you’ll start saying “What the H#ll were we thinking?” I have seen it over and over again. Again, not to worry as long as you realize it WILL happen. And seriously I have seen way too many Divorces because of a home being built, NOT good; most importantly, plan, plan, plan and realize the “end game” you’re looking for in your new home.
Ok, on to the Nuts and Bolts.
Location
First, Location, Location, Location. Yes I said it 3 times; location is one of the most important things in building your home. There are a LOT of things to take into consideration in choosing “where”. Are you retired, are you healthy, do you need to be close to a town/schools/hospital/… Do you need others to be close around for social/emergencies/home-help/… Or do you want/need to be 200 miles from the nearest light source? Do you want to be in the mountains, desert, wetlands, 10 feet of snow, and so on. Do you need to continue to work? Are you able to work the land (farming)? Do you feel you need to repel 500 Zombies? Can you relocate 2000 miles to pursue your “home”, do you have children you need to consider, other family?RELATED : Here Are 10 Things Non-Preppers Will Be Forced To Face When TSHTF. (#8 Is REALLY Going To Hit Them Hard!)
Finding the “perfect location” is all a matter of choice, my “location” may/probably would not be yours. Take time; look around, other states/countries. I know that my own search will take years, so at the age of 62, I’m already looking for that “retirement place”. Everyone wants that “perfect hunk of dirt” it IS out there, it may take you time to find it, but when you do, you will know.
Utilities
Next, Utilities; now I’m going to have a lot of feedback on this, but my feeling is if you can hook to “power”, then do so. Solar is GREAT, do not misunderstand my thinking, and so is the idea of “I’m off-grid”, but I like the idea of having virtually unlimited power in my home (think 300-400 Amp service, big shop/garage, ‘guy thing’). I will be installing a Solar Battery-backup Grid-Tied System in my home. Why? Because I can “sell” the power back at 80% of what I pay for it, basically meaning I would have free use of the “Company’s” availability. And the fact if/when the grid goes down, ohhhhh well, I have my system in place.I also feel the same with Water, if I can hook to a municipality great, again I will have a well/storage backup that will last a long time, if needed.
Sewer; Not where I plan on going, a Septic System is cheap to install.
Internet, Radios, Phone, TV, that’s all wireless or satellite now. I do like the idea of having a good Ham System set up for those “after days”.
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Lastly, Propane I love the long life of Propane, I hate buying it, but again this is a “home” not a 200’ underground bunker beneath Cheyenne Mountain. Make sure your thinking includes wood-stoves in your plans; I will go more into that in a later article.
Lastly for this segment, please check all of the Laws concerning construction, talk to the Building Dept., talk to the local EPA of local hazards (land-fills, underground water regulations and so forth), find the local sheriff and check on Gun Laws (and other laws) and ask him on his views. Go to the local Church, talk to neighbors and check on food-bank usage (ideas on number of homeless or poor in the area). Find out where the local airport is and their air patterns (a 747 flying overhead is quite the distraction). Also visit the proposed site/land a LOT of times during your visit, walk the land, get a feel for the soil, trust your “gut” and how you feel when there. Honestly, if you don’t get that “warm fuzzy” feeling when you visit the land, move on.
The next few articles will be more concerning the actual design and needs you may want in your/my home. Please feel free to comment, all ideas are welcome.
Part-2
Ideas, Plans & Builders
First let me thank all of you for the nice reception of the first article. That’s one of the reasons I do like Ken’s Blog and the people that visit/comment. You always seem to have a positive outlook and are well informed.So; “on with the show”…
Security
It was not my intention to include this topic in my article, but a lot of comments on the first segment warranted this. With so much going on, read the news, I wanted to touch on this a little. Please remember these are my thoughts and not the “rule of law” or if you’re building the “survivalist bunker” 300’ underground.I know a lot of you think of a house/home as an impenetrable structure, NOT so, I will guarantee there is not a building anywhere that someone with extended experience and a little time cannot get into. 99.99% of the homes, even most “survivalist homes”, will not withstand a 50CAL-AP, 400 invading “golden-hoard-Zombies”, a pound of C-4, or a well determined 40MM mortar round. Plus given a little time even an old-fart like me could either burn or wait you out. Point is building a “prepper” home is not about (in my opinion) being bullet proof, bomb proof, or anything proof, secure yes, impenetrable no.
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It’s more about functionality and redundancies. Can it operate 100% off grid? Can it survive an Arctic Winter, a summer in the Sahara Desert, a Hurricane, or a collapsed economy and a 2 year long absence of outside “stuff”? What do you need/want your home to be, a concrete hole 300 feet underground or a place to actually live your life and enjoy what little life we have? Personally I want that view of the mountains and that lake knowing I can last that one more week/month/year on what I have. Do I want it to hold out that crack-head or a couple of thieves? Sure I do, but nothing will survive an ICBM at 300 feet overhead……JMHO.
Ideas
Like any project there will be hundreds and hundreds of Ideas that have to be thought out, considered, modified, and/or tossed out. My suggestion when first considering a project of this magnitude is buying several 8.5X11 scratch/drafting pads and start writing everything down, and I do mean everything, from what type/color of roof you like to the placement of the kitchen sink. Make sketches and notes, what size you want the bed-rooms, how many bath-rooms, rough layout of the house, if you want a basement, it goes on and on. Reasoning for this exercise? You will be so overwhelmed at some point these “notes” will come in very very handy.With this is mind, here are a few of my “ideas” for the NRP retirement home. Please remember this is a “Prepper’s” home, not a Survivalist Nuclear Resistant Bunker.
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1. No steps -I’m getting old and HATE steps. Getting to the basement might be a challenge
2. Metal “Standing Seam Roof”, great for rain water catchment and very wind resistant, 120 MPH minimal. Also most SSR’s are warranted for 30-40 years. Additionally I always take the “Code Roof Load”/Snow recommended load and double it for the support structure. I like a STRONG roof.
3. Framing will be a hybrid of Steel Structure and Metal Stud. I know some like “Concrete Walls” I will address that in a later article.
4. Exterior finishes, Depending on area of the home and esthetics I’m leaning towards a good thick Stucco or Brick/Block; both are somewhat fire resistant and are rather maintenance free. (Think Wild-fires)
5. Interior will probably be good old Drywall. It’s cheap, I would rather put money else places that need it. I will say that within the building/home I will be installing several sheets of “Level 5 Bullet Proofing” or Concrete Walls and very strong steel doors, A “safe room” if you want.
6. I suggest a full Basement, ½ will be “secret” with three hidden entrances, first a “drop hatch” from the safe-room, second a hidden entrance from the “other” basement, third an outside escape (tunnel) to the interior of an “out building” (garage/shed/shop).
7. Electrical and water, each of us has our thoughts, I want a Grid Tied Solar System with Battery Backup, if the land permits it, maybe a wind-generator. Also a water system that can filter out 99.9999% of everything, with a LOT of storage (5000 gallons min.), a well with at least 2 ways of pulling water.
8. Lasts thing I want to mention, Storage, lost and LOTS of storage. Including a “root cellar” accessible from the house and outside. Don’t forget the “security” doors on the outside. Also don’t forget the “hidden” storage for hiding “stuff” if the Feds do come a knocking.
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I could go on for 50 pages of my ideas; the point is you have to make your list of what you need/want. Look around at other houses, commercial-buildings, banks, etc. take pictures and take notes. Check out the net; thousands and thousands of house-plans are around to look at. Everything in your home is something you should choose, not someone else.
Plans
I draw my own plans, have for a long time, BUT most people can’t or don’t have the expertise. That’s where an Architect/Engineer comes in. The very first thing in finding an Arch is “can he keep his mouth SHUT!!?” You will be building a home that will have some “stuff” in it that’s “unusual”. Like bullet proofing/safe-room, like an escape tunnel, backups to backups, so-on. You will want to sign a contract that if he says a single word you can toss him in jail for 500 years and own everything he owns, period. There is no reason to be nice about that. Make dang sure he also understands that he will not be welcome if TSHTF. Make sure he understands these things before you present your ideas to him. Can you tell I have had a lot of experience with Arch’s? And yes, mostly good, but…….. OPSEC.Next part of having plans drawn; present the Arch with exactly what you want, hence all the drawings/notes/photos. He works for you, do NOT let him toss in his ideas and disregard your wants, he should be able to make sure the “code issues” are covered, and the basics, again this is YOUR home, not his, do not let him alter what you’re wanting to build. FYI the Arch will NOT need to visit your home when being built, also write into the contract that he will destroy all of his paperwork regarding your house when the plans are finished.
Remember that the Building Dept. only needs a few things to look at, such as footings, framing, structural, plot plan, Life/Safety items, they do NOT need electrical and plumbing or a lot of other stuff, it’s none of their business. Instruct the Arch to only put on the “permit set” exactly what is needed for a permit and nothing more; then a “full set” for actual construction for you and the contractor. The less the .gov knows the better.
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Builder
Ok, now for the hard part, if you build yourself then no problem. But if hiring a general contractor, well, that’s an animal of a different color. You need to talk to every contractor in the book, literally, do your research, and ask to look at his tools (you can tell a lot about a person by the condition of his work tools). You MUST find someone that you can trust. Talk to him at least ten times (yes ten times), if he seems to get aggravated because of that, then move on.Here is one for you, when talking to him, does he look you in the eyes, or look to the side? Are his hands sweaty when you shake his hand? Does he seem nervous? Judging human nature is difficult at times, but you have got to trust this person.
Again make sure you sign a “keep your mouth shut” contract. Also the “sub-contractors” he uses, make dang sure they understand the same things you beat up on the Arch/Builder about. Side note, if he/they ask for money “up front” walk away, FAST!!!!! I know a few contractors I would not trust with the time of day, let alone my money, in the same breath I know a lot of “good” contractors.
Bug-out (Evacuation) Plan – Ideas For Your Bug-out Task List
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Your bug-out plan is just as important as having a bug out bag. Few families have a bug out bag. Fewer families have a bug out plan. So we’ll discuss what components you might have in your bug-out plan (or bug out task list). You should obviously customize your bug-out plan to your unique circumstances. Where you live, what climate exists at your location, the local weather, and map of the local road network should all play into your bug-out planning. If you have special health care needs, have limits on mobility, or people who reply upon you, these items should also factor into your bug-out plan. Each member of your family should be evaluated for special consideration in your bug-out plan, based on age, mobility, health, dietary requirements, illnesses, injuries, or with other specialized needs. Take my suggestions here as guidance on the type of subjects and topics that should exist in your bug-out plan. But take the time to adjust and add to these times for your local circumstances and family requirements.
The basic question to answer, if there was an announcement to evacuate your neighborhood right at this moment, what would you do?
Have a pre-planned task list and checklist stuff to pack will buy you time to get your affairs in order. Some bug-out situations require you to leave immediately, such as a train wreck with chemical leaks, nuclear power plant accident, leaking dam, flash flood, or wild-fire. Some disasters give you a bit more time for packing, such as a hurricane alert, flooding alert, long-term electrical power outage, or announcement of tainted water. You should prepare both for a rapid bug-out and a more planned bug-out.
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A rapid bug-out is a requirement that you leave immediately. There is no time to do anything, but get into your vehicle and start your retreat. Your action in this situation is to grab some clothing, your valuable jewelry and bullion coins. Grab your bug-out bag, and then go immediately. Any lingering may put you at further risk. During an evacuation announcement, the folks that don’t leave or leave late are who typically are injured and killed. And those that leave late may sit in traffic for countless hours, not moving and wasting your fuel. Once an evacuation has been announced, the rule should be to collect your family immediately and go quickly.
Something you should consider in an evacuation event, government agency tend to wait until the last moment to announce an evacuation. I’d recommend that you monitor news closely, and consider leaving before an evacuation order is announced. If you leave at the same time that thousands or millions of other people evacuate, you’ll be caught in a sea of people, likely sit in traffic jams for countless hours, and not find any fuel to refill your vehicle. My personal rule for evacuations are: (1) be ready before everyone else, (2) leave before an evacuation is announced, (3) arrive at my retreat location well before the situation becomes urgent. If a hurricane had a chance of coming over my home, I’m gone four hours before my neighbors even consider leaving.
The following is a recommended task list for your bug-out plan. If you feel that you have time to conduct these tasks, your outcome from the disaster will be much better. This task list is focused on evacuating in a vehicle. If you are in a dire situation where you must bug-out only on foot, then the best you can do is a single backpack and perhaps a luggage roller back. You must build into your bug-out plan your means of evacuation and how much can your reasonably take with you. My family has a mini-van, so we can pack a lot of stuff by putting down the third row and strapping gear on the roof. Your vehicle may have more or less space, so you’ll need to prioritize everything in your bug-out bag and your bug-out checklist. The following task list is a list of my bug out task list. Take what parts make sense to you, and customize your own bug-out task list. I recommend that you have a document folder in your bug-out bag. In addition to containing valuable documents, the document folder should contain your bug-out task list. In the event of an emergency, the body is flooded with adrenaline. Adrenaline has the tendency to limit the clarity of your thinking. By having your task list printed and ready in your bug-out bag, then you are less likely to panic, and be able to immediately set about the efforts to evacuate in a well-organized manner.
Bug-out Task List
(In suggested priority, highest priority first)
1#Your very first task is to get information. For this reason, I
recommend always having a battery operated radio. And lots of extra
batteries. Batteries are the separating mechanism between modern
conveniences and the Dark Age. Turn on the radio to local news/talk
station, and listen closely while you are preparing for your evacuation.2#If you don’t have your own vehicle, obtaining transportation is your most urgent need. Listen to the news as to what guidance evacuees are given for public transportation. Chances are you may need to walk to a pick-up location. You may wish to consider talking to a friend or neighbor with a vehicle about riding with them.
3#If you are home-bound or infirmed, I’d have no problem dialing 911 (or whatever your local emergency number is) to asking for transport. Local emergency management organizations may have a specific phone number to call to arrange pick-up for people with special needs. Many towns and cities maintain lists of people who have special needs for an evacuation. If you fall into this category, please investigate how you can subscribe to the local evacuees assistance list. Shamefully, many of the deaths from Hurricane Katrina were elderly or bed-ridden, and had no means of escaping the flood waters. If you have any special needs, definitely plan ahead for an evacuation. Once an evacuation is announced, chaos will predominate.
4#Load your bug-out bag into your vehicle. Copies of important documents should already exist in your bug-out bag, so I’ll not discuss in this article what important documents you should take with you. The basic rule for your bug-out bag is it should contain everything you need to survive comfortable for 3 days. If your vehicle has more room, increase your bug-out bag to 5 days of capability. My bug out bag can provide for all my family’s needs for 7 days, perhaps longer if able to hunt, fish, or purchase food. If you don’t have a vehicle, then you might scale down your bug-out bag to a backpack. Part of my bug-out bag is contained in a large backpack, in case we need to start walking or must leave our vehicle. Always have your bug out bag packed and ready to go, anytime of the year. It is best to update and refresh your bug out at the beginning of each season, since each season will have specialized needs. During the summer, you’ll want to include insect repellant and sun screen lotions. In the winter, consider having hand warmers, extra blankets, spare gloves and hats, and long underwear as part of your bug out bag. The way I structure my bug-out bag is the following:
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Package One – Stuff: Radios, first aid supplies, playing cards, knives, portable fishing gear, batteries, etc. This is what most people think of as their bug-out bag. My bug-out bag is as much a process as it is stuff to take with me.
- Package Two – Food: Plastic tote bin with canned and dehydrated food
- Package Three – Gather Items: A container to hold last-minute gather items, such as prescription medicines, gold and silver coins, personal care items, feminine hygiene items, etc.
- Package Four – Tactical Kits: Guns, ammo, pepper spray, body armor, tactical gear
- Package Five – Clothing: Each family member has their own backpack of three changes of clothing
- Package Six – Camping Gear: My camping gear is pre-organized into tote bins
- Package Seven – Water: As much water as I can fit into the vehicle.
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6#For many reasons, carrying clean drinking water in your vehicle is important, In case you are stranded with your vehicle, then you can wait for help a long time, provided you have enough drinking water. Also, you might need water to mix baby formula. Or you might be called upon to fill up the vehicle radiator or wind shield wiper blade fluids. During the summer, you’ll need a lot more water to prevent dehydration and heat stroke. My vehicles always carry three gallons of fresh water, plus a dozen 500ml bottles of drinking water. During an evacuation event, I’ll toss in a case or two of bottled water into the vehicle. Any spare room in the vehicle after I pack all the bug out packages is filled with more water. Water is always the critical resource during a disaster. You can go a couple of days or even several weeks without food. But after three days without water, you are in big trouble. My bug-out kit contain three ways to sterilize water for drinking: (1) Portable berkey water filter, (2) A couple bottles of water purification tablets, and (3) A quart bottle of pure bleach.
7#Put on comfortable walking shoes. Hiking shoes or hiking boots, which are already broken in, are preferred for every family member, in case you must retreat on foot. Take along winter boots, if you live in the colder areas of the country. Included in my bug-out kits are spare shoe laces, superglue to make quick shoe repairs, and often a backup pair of shoes for each family member.
8#Grab and pack your prescription medicine, needed over-the-counter medicines, and any needed medical equipment which is needed on a daily basis.
9#I always keep a full, well stocked first aid kit in my vehicles. If you don’t have a substantial first aid kit in your vehicle, then add to your packing list. Your bug out bag should also contain a first aid kits (usually smaller in size) for a layer of redundancy.
10#Grab and pack a bag of clothing that is typical for the season you are in. Three changes of clothing are likely enough. How much clothing you pack depends on how much packing time you have and how much space you have in your vehicle. Each family member has a backpack devoted to three changes of clothing, which are appropriate for the season.
11#Grab and pack a jacket, coat, and outer wear that is common for your climate. Error on the side of too heavy a coat. Each to shed layers. Hard to add layers that don’t exist.
12#Grab and pack bedding. Ideally, you should have an outdoor quality sleeping bag for each family member. I find with my family that having your own, regular pillow for their sleeping comfort. Extra blankets are recommended for the cold times of the year. Always keep a couple spare blankets in the car, regardless.
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13#Grab and pack your camping equipment, in case you must make your own camp. I have portable Coleman camp stove and small propane tanks to accompany it. Also have the following items in my camping kite: portable camp chairs, camping cookware (pots, pans, tea kettle), heavy plastic dishes and eating utensils which are washable, ground tarp, 3 season tent large enough for our family (need to acquire a 4 season tent, but our winters are typically mild), portable tent fan powered by a rechargeable battery (it can be miserable to sleep in a tent when the outside temperature is 90 degrees F or higher), small camp axe, small camp shovel, small camp saw, portable camping toilet (which is a toilet seat that fits over a 10 gallon bucket, the 10 gallon bucket is packed with toilet paper), portable camp shower, empty food grade 10 gallon buckets (for use in hauling water or washing clothing), portable water filter, a liter of pure bleach (for water purification), canteens, drinking cups, cooking utensils, and mallet to pound in the tent stakes. My camping kit is pre-packaged in plastic tote bins. I merely need to load the tote bins into our vehicle. It would take me under one minute to load my vehicle with our full camping kit. Camping has been a lifelong hobby of mine. And that hobby serves me well in a disaster situation. I’d feel complete comfortable establishing a camp homestead in a forest – anytime of the year.
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14#Grab and pack your bug-out firearms and an ample supply of ammunition for each firearm. A pistol is recommended for every legal adult. And a shotgun or rifle is recommended for every legal adult. I also intend to carry a backup pistol. My primary pistol is a modern, full-sized 9mm semi-automatic pistol. My backup is a snubby .357mag revolver. Lots of firearms experts recommend a 22LR rifle for bug-out situations. It is not a bad recommendation, but I do something different. Rather, my wife’s carry rifle is a Hi Point 9mm carbine (as I discussed in a recent blog posting). The 9mm carbine can do just about everything a 22LR does, but is also an acceptable level of self-defense. Yes, 357Mag, 40S&W, 45 ACP, 44Mag, .223Rem, 7.62×39, and .308Win are much better man stoppers. But these calibers are too much for my wife to handle. 22LR is a very poor caliber for self-defense from 2 legged and 4 legged animals. I can share ammo between my primary pistols and my wife’s carbine, thus less ammo to pack in a bug-out situation. My carry rifle is one of the larger common calibers. If you have a tactical kit with your firearms, that should get packed into your vehicle as well. I keep a turnkey package of ammo, cleaning kit, lubricants, tools, and trigger locks inside of a plastic tool box. The plastic tool box is thick and heavy-duty. And I lock tool box with a pad lock to prevent access by children and potential thieves. I have one of these tool boxes pre-packaged for each of our bug-out firearms. If I need to leave my home quick, I merely grab the prepackaged tool box and my firearms, and immediately ready to roll within minutes. (Teach your children to recognize and stay away from firearms. You never know when your children will encounter a firearm. A firearm can be tossed out the car window by a criminal. Or a firearm could be left out in plain sight at a friend or neighbor’s home. And children will curiously search drawers and closets. There are two valid locations for a firearm to exist. First is actively carrying it. The second is locked away from children and mentally ill. There should be no third location.)
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15#I cannot stress enough that having your concealed carry license or permit is a very valuable resource during an evacuation. Firearms are best carried concealed. A visible firearm makes you a rich target for police and thieves. During an emergency declaration, some police departments will confiscate firearms. Long guns should notbe transported in a dedicate gun cases or tactical bags. Such gun carrying packages will also be targets for police or thieves. Having several tactical bags in the back of your vehicle will call attention to you. Rather, transport your long guns in duffle bags or musical instrument cases. Likely no one will challenge you, if you are carrying a guitar case. Keep a trigger lock on your long guns, while transporting in duffle bag or musical instrument case. My long guns will be packed under the camping equipment, under bags of clothing, under everything while being transported. If someone looked into my vehicle, they would see a lot of family stuff, and nothing that looked like we were going to war. During an evacuation, make any efforts not to stand out, not to call attention to you. If you check into a public emergency shelter, expect your firearms to be confiscated. I plan to avoid public emergency shelters for a variety of reasons, among which is the requirement to surrender your firearms. If I happen to come upon a police road block and the police ask if I have any firearms, my plan is to state that I have “nothing to report” in my vehicle. Or I might simply say no, as if not understanding the question. If asked if my vehicle can be searched, my response will be a polite, respectful NO. I’ll immediately assert my 4th amendment rights and 5thamendment rights, and then will keep my mouth shut. If I told that I’ll be detained for not permitting the search, I am happy to wait that out. And again, keep your mouth shut. Make sure spouse/partner and adult members of your household understands this concept. If you say no and your wife says yes, well the police only need one yes to search your vehicle. As a law-abiding citizen, your only requirement to police is to identify yourself. Some states require that you announce that you have a concealed carry license/permit to any police officer talking to you. I plan to provide my driver’s license, concealed carry permit, and vehicle registration to any police officer. Any questions asked of you should be deferred to your lawyer. Say NOTHING to the police at this point. Don’t try to explain yourself. Don’t lie to the police. Simply say nothing. Keep your mouth shut! A response to any police question should be, “With great respect to your duties, I must defer all questions to my attorney. I will only talk to you in the presence of my attorney. I am invoking both my 4th and 5th amendment rights NOW.” It is very important that you say that you are invoking your 5th amendment rights, since recent court cases have designated that this is the only way to secure your rights against self-incrimination. If then the police continue to search my vehicle without my permission, then I’ll let my lawyer handle it later. If you are polite, respectful, and well-manner, most likely the police will let you pass. For backup self-defense weapons, I also have the following items: bear pepper spray (there are black bears where I go hiking), key chain sized pepper spray, a heavy 6D Maglite flashlight (as a striking self-defense weapon), and several knives. Please don’t take of this article as recommendations for yourself. Know your local and state laws. Consider for yourself what self-defense weapons you will carry, if any. If you have any questions about this topic, consult a licensed attorney. I am not here to provide you with any advice or recommendations regarding firearms or legal issues, but merely sharing what my personal plans are, and having educational and entertainment discussion with you. During an evacuation event, criminals are very active, thus you must be very vigilant against crime. Rapes and robberies become much more frequent during an evacuation. And police will mistakenly act upon instructions to confiscate weapons, so prepare for that as well. The vast majority of police dedicated public servants, and all around good people. Being respectful and polite, not swearing, not use a loud voice, saying calm and motionless, folding your hands across your chest — this goes a long way to getting well along with police. Recognized that police will be under great stress during an evacuation event. Don’t give them any cause for more stress
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If you have your own vehicle, the weight will typically not be an issue. But if you are walking or getting a ride, it will be difficult to talk a large lot of silver coins. Definitely take all your gold coins with you, since gold is a very dense form of wealth. Don’t leave your gold or your valuable jewelry at home – in case you never return.
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18#Run around your home taking pictures of every room in your home. This is very important. Take pictures of all your valuables. Take pictures inside your closets. Take picture of electronics, furniture, and artwork. Take a picture of all improvements you have made to your home. Take pictures of any item that cost more than $500. Best to use a digital camera, so that you may immediately verify the quality of the pictures. If your camera can record a date and time each picture was taken, turn on that feature. And then take the camera with you. By having a current record of your home’s contents, you may provide this to your insurance company. If you need to make a claim against your homeowners/renters insurance, these pictures will be invaluable to establish your losses.
19#Turn off the utility connections to your home. Turn off the main electrical breaker for the feed line into your home. If your home relies upon a sump pump, then keep on the main breaker and breaker to the sump pump, but turn off other individual breakers. Turn off the main connections for natural gas and water. Also turn off your water heater. And turn over the water intake valve and natural gas intake valve to your water heater. If your sewer line can be closed, do so also. Expect sewers to back up into your home, if there is flooding. Natural gas and water pipes may break, thus causing further damage. After you turn off the main water valve coming into your home, run the faucets until the water stops flowing. This will prevent pipes from freezing and bursting in the winter. Upon your return home, let the water flow through your pipes for a solid 30 minutes to flush out the pipes. Keep track if your local water provider is recommending that you sanitize water before consuming.
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20#Fill up your vehicle’s fuel tank with your stored fuel. But don’t take a filled fuel container with you in your vehicle. You are more likely than ever to be involved in an automobile accident, during a bug-out event. A survival-able automobile accident can become a tragedy by carrying a filled fuel container. Even at 35 MPH, a filled fuel can burst open during an accident. You might survive a faction of a second a 50G forces from an accident, but don’t expect your fuel cans to survive those same forces. Rather, just take an empty fuel container with you. This allows you to walk or be driven to a gas station, if your vehicle runs out of fuel. During an evacuation event, expect that gas stations will be sold out of empty fuel containers. By keeping your vehicles continually filled at three-quarters or more (always!), this will provide you a likely amount of range needed to get out of the evacuation area.
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21#A very difficult decision to confront is whether you take your pets with you. In many disaster scenarios, it is simply not possible to take your pets. When the levees burst in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina, you had to focus on your own immediate survival. If you attempt to rescue your pet also, the danger to yourself increases. FEMA and Red Cross and other disaster response agencies have recently recognized the need to have pet care facilities at emergency shelters. But many, most hotels and motels have strict limits on pets. If you must leave your pet behind, I’d suggest that you lock them into a specific room, lay down lots of old newspaper to collect wastes, and put out a lot of dried food and lots of extra water. Only in the most dire situations would I let the pets run free, such as an imminent forest fire. If you can take your pets with you, then having a dedicated pet carrier is very helpful. And bring your own pet food. Don’t expect relief agencies to have any pet food. Be prepared to dispose of animal wastes. It is advisable to transition your pets to dry food. Dry pet food is much easier transported and stored for longer periods of time. Many survival food providers are now also providing long-term stored food for cats and dogs.
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22#Close and lock every window. If you have time, remove portable air conditioners from windows. Portable air conditioners create a point of vulnerability for your windows. Close drapes and blinds over windows. You want to prevent people from looking into your home, in case looters are coming through your neighborhood.
23#If you home is over a crawl space, rather than a basement, then close the air vents to the crawl space. This will lessen the amount of water, smoke, or dust from entering the crawl space. If there is a small door to the crawl space, put a lock on it. Or secure it with hammer and nails.
24#If you have a shed, outbuilding or barn, then lock it before you leave.
25#Remove items in your yard, which may become debris or wind-blown. This might reduce potential damage from wind or flooding.
26#Remove milk, cheeses, meats, and other food which will spoil from your refrigerator. These will rot quickly and stink up the entire home, if you are away for a couple of weeks. Just after two weeks without electricity, food store in a refrigerator will create a sanitary risk. Accept that you’ll likely need to write off the contents of freezers and refrigerators. Be prepared upon your return home to empty your freezer and refrigerator, and carefully sanitize both with diluted bleach.
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27#Empty garbage cans, especially from the kitchen. Trash will likely stink up your home, if you away for a week or more.
28#Take all your keys with you, including for the vehicles, motorcycles, RV’s, ATV’s, and riding mowers, which you are not taking away from your home. If your home is damaged, expect that keys will be lost forever. Don’t leave keys around for thieves to utilize.
29#If the potential damage is likely to result from water and flooding, then move valuable items to the 2nd or higher floor. If the damage is likely to result from fire or wind, then move valuables to the lowest level in your home. When you leave your home, you are very limited as to what you can pack and carry. Therefore you must leave a lot of stuff at your home. If you have time, start moving your valuable items to a safer spot in your home. The items you may wish to move to safer spots in your home include: expensive area rugs (like Persian rugs), expensive furniture, clocks, art work, collectibles, physical pictures, televisions, stereo/audio equipment, electronics, firearms, files of old tax forms, receipts for major purchases, books, bedding, china/dishware, etc. This is a time-consuming activity. So you must use good judgment as to how much time you devote to this activity. I’d suggest that you make a prioritized list of what items that you cannot pack for your bug-out. Based on the type of disaster that is occurring, give yourself a specific time limit. Work down your prioritized list and stop once your time limit has been reach. Recognize that you can only do some much.
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30#Call your neighbors to check on them. Especially check on any elderly or disabled neighbors. If you have time, offer to help pack their stuff. An attempt to secure transportation for them.
31#If you have any remaining space in your vehicle, and have enough time, go back through your home looking for any valuables you can take with you.
32#Turn on the security system, lock the door, say goodbye to your home, and say a prayer.
Use your idle time while traveling or waiting. As soon as you leave your house or while waiting to be picked up, use that time for the following tasks:
1#Call your homeowners or rental insurance agent to discuss if your home is covered by the pending event. If not, attempt to add coverage immediately. Put your insurance agent on alert that they may be called upon to file a future claim. You can conduct this task once you start driving.
2#Make a reservation at a distanced motel/hotel, if you are not going to the home of a friend or family member.
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3#Start calling your family and close friends. Let them know where you are going and what your plans are.
4#Plug in your mobile phone into a portable vehicle charger. Always keep your mobile phone ready with a full charge.
5#Give everyone in the vehicle a snack to eat in the car. It’s going to be a long, unpleasant day. Best to keep everyone’s energy levels high for the anticipated delays and inconveniences. Make sure everyone is well hydrated.
6#If you happened to stop for a bathroom break or to fill the vehicle with fuel, use that time to load up on more snacks/food (including from vending machines). Also, get more money from an ATM machine, if possible.
7#While you are driving away from the evacuation zone, if you get caught not moving in a long traffic jam, turn off your vehicle. Make a conscious effort to minimize fuel usage. Driving at, and not above speed limits, will also improve fuel economy. You’ll need to nurse your fuel levels and strive to minimize fuel consumption. It might be a long time until you can refuel your vehicle.
8#Attempt to learn about what plans your children’s schools are making for canceling or resuming classes.
9#Listen to the radio to get news updates, further guidance and instructions.
10#Give your children some toys, games, or movies to watch. Keep them distracted, so that you can focus on the event at hand.
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There is nothing fun about an evacuation. By being prepared with your bug-out checklist, you’ll increase your survivability and lessen the damage to your valuables. I pray and hope you never need to evacuate. I’ve had to do it once in my life. It is a miserable experience I hope never to repeat.(source)
Self-Sufficiency Homesteading Skills: 10 Smart Ideas My Redneck Neighbor Taught Me
http://beforeitsnews.com/self-sufficiency/2015/11/self-sufficiency-homesteading-skills10-smart-ideas-my-redneck-neighbor-taught-me-photo-video-2497516.html
7 Ways To Use Turmeric
Turmeric has been in the spotlight for a while now, rightfully so, as it is one of the most incredible healing agents on the planet! When I say Turmeric is incredible, it’s an understatement. This link here will blow you away.According to FitLifeTV, he says that legend has it that, In ancient Indian text when they refer to gold, they actually mean Turmeric?
In the video below he will show you 7 different ways to use Turmeric to improve your health.
12 Natural Cold Remedies to Help You Feel Better
Why pharmaceutical cold remedies should not be your first choice
While many people run to the drugstore at the first sign of a sniffle, it’s important to remember that sometimes the side effects can be worse than the symptoms you’re trying to treat.Antihistamines
Antihistamines are supposed to stop the watering eyes, runny noses and scratchy throats but result in severe drowsiness for most people. Other common side effects are dizziness, headaches, dry mouth, dry eyes, and fatigue.
Decongestants (like pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine) allege to reduce sinus congestion, but can also dangerously increase heart rates and blood pressure in some people. Other side effects are Restlessness, insomnia, tremors, and anxiety.
Phenylpropanolamine (PPA), another common ingredient in cold and flu medicines, can increase the risk of hemorrhagic stroke, especially in women ages 19-45.
For people who take monoamine oxidase inhibitors or SSRI antidepressants, the above medication types can cause lethal interactions.
OTC Cough Medicine
Dextromethorphan, the most common active ingredient in over-the-counter cough medicine, can be deadly if the recommended dosage is exceeded. As well, it is one of the most abused OTCs for those seeking a quick “high”. Common side effects of dextromethorphan are drowsiness, nausea, confusion, and dizziness. Expectorants and suppressants can cause either constipation or diarrhea.
Medicated Nasal Sprays
Over the counter medicated nasal sprays work quickly to open the nasal passages, but if they are used for more than 3-5 days in a row, they can result in more congestion than you had in the first place due to the “rebound effect” or rhinitis medicamentosa. When this occurs, the swelling of the nasal passages can become permanent, requiring surgical intervention.
A collection of natural cold remedies
You can get relief without diving into the chemicals. Following, find links to DIY home remedies that you can make yourself, as well as links to homeopathic and herbal pre-made remedies.We keep these remedies on hand, as well as the ingredients for making them. Viruses are normally short-lived at our home, or at least the intense part of the sickness.
- Try a DIY Healing Vapor Rub. This one is simple to make, and if you keep some basic essential oils on hand, you most likely have everything you need already to whip this up. (I made this for my daughter recently and it was very soothing.)
- A fragrant, steaming cup of herbal tea can make everything better. This article discusses the herbal teas you should have in your home arsenal, including several that will help soothe cold symptoms.
- Breathe Free by Rootology contains a combination of 13 herbal extracts, tested for purity and strength. This remedy reduces congestion, alleviates sinus pressure, and relieves a runny nose.
- Add a Eucalyptus Shower Bomb to a steamy shower. The moist, scented air will help the sufferer breathe more easily.
- This Honey, Lemon, and Ginger cough syrup will not only relieve cough symptoms but also help to boost your immunity.
- Fire cider is a traditional remedy that has been used for centuries. Unfortunately, it usually takes a few weeks to be ready. This easy recipe provides instant gratification (and relief).
- Speaking of your immune system, this immune-boosting smoothie will help make your system powerful enough to fight off illness before it happens, or to battle a cold effectively if you already have one.
- This is a guide to the different herbs you can use to make your own cough syrup based on your specific symptoms.
- Studies show that when zinc comes into contact with the rhinovirus (the virus that causes colds)it can prevent replication, shortening the amount of time that the sufferer is ill. One study recommends one lozenge every two hours. Lozenges and syrups, as opposed to capsules, are the recommended treatment.
- Nothing tastes better when you’re sick than soup made with homemade chicken or turkey broth. I can broth to be pulled out when the bugs strike our house. Here’s the recipe we use for the basis of our homemade soup. (Hint: the more garlic you add, the more healing power your soup will have.)
- Taking large doses of Vitamin C is a fairly common practice, and studies show that it can be effective in reducing the duration of cold symptoms. This website offers several different Vitamin C protocols you can try. Be sure to only use a high-quality Vitamin C supplement when you are using it therapeutically.
- Elderberry extract is often used for colds, but studies show it is more effective in treating the flu. Sometimes it can be difficult to determine whether your illness is caused by a cold virus or a flu virus, and elderberry does have antiviral properties, so taking it certainly won’t hurt you. Sambucol is the only standardized elderberry extract that has been used in studies. You can purchase it here or make your own syrup.
Winter Survival: 3 Ways To Survive Outdoors
Surviving the wilderness in the bitter
cold is not for the faint of heart. Record low temperatures could create
the need for emergency shelters, especially if you find yourself
outdoors and fear exposure.
Your Top Priorities In a Cold Environment
Your primary concerns in such an
unforgiving environment is shelter and water. You want to ensure you can
maintain your body heat. One small mistake such as accidently losing a
glove or eye protection can cause detrimental issues like hypothermia,
frostbite and even snow blindness. In addition, the clothing layers you
wear outdoors could make all the difference in the world. Proper layers
insulate and prevent heat loss, and in an emergency situation, you may
need to improvise and find what is around you to maintain a proper body
temperature. For example, dry leaves could be used as an emergency layer
of insulation if you are concerned with hypothermia.
A trick that many outdoor enthusiasts use
to warming their outdoor emergency shelters, is having a thermal barrier
to trap heat in the shelter. An example of this type of barrier is
Mylar blankets. If you position your Mylar sheeting to reflect the heat
of your fire toward your tent, you can increase the heat substantially.
Mylar blankets is one item that can make all the difference in the
world! This lightweight prepper item is one of the most multipurpose
items you can take with you and a must-have for your outdoor gear! Ever
wonder about all the ways you can use Mylar? Check this article out.
Water is another top priority. Dehydration
is a major risk when outdoors. Cold weather studies at the University
of New Hampshire show increased risk for dehydration, a condition many
associate with hot weather emergencies. “People just don’t feel as
thirsty when the weather is cold,” says Robert Kenefick, UNH associate
professor of kinesiology. “When they don’t feel thirsty, they don’t
drink as much, and this can cause dehydration.” Moreover, excessive
perspiration, heavy clothing and increased respiratory fluid loss are
other factors that contribute to dehydration in cold climates. For
example, when you can see your own breath, that’s actually water vapor
that your body is losing. The colder the temperature and the more
intense the exercise, the more vapor you lose when you breathe.
As well, you want to put careful thought
into the tools you carry with you. Not only should the tools be helpful,
but some should serve a double purpose of preventing hypothermia. Some
other tools to consider are:
Tools:
- Ax
- Survival knife with 4-6 inch blade
- Thick waterproof tarp
- Extra long Mylar blanket
- Waterproof winter gloves
- Shovel
- Paracord
- If you can face your shelter towards the east you will be able to prevent heat loss from prevailing winds and storms coming into your shelter.
- Protect yourself from the elements by using branches, sticks, tarps or whatever you have available. Pine branches are great for wind-proofing your shelter and preventing heat loss from the ground.
- Body heat can quickly escape if you do not have a ground insulator. If you can make your bedding area off the ground, you will be able to conserve more body heat. Consider pine needles, leaves, spruce boughs and/or branches, or even building up the snow around your primitive shelter.
- Take into consideration your energy output on building the shelter versus the protection of the shelter.
This Potent Herb Heals COPD, Adrenal Fatigue, Cancer, Immune Dysfunction and More
http://beforeitsnews.com/alternative/2015/11/this-potent-herb-heals-copd-adrenal-fatigue-cancer-immune-dysfunction-and-more-3247306.html
Disasters: 5 Items That May Save Your Life
Things can change drastically in a minute and with times changing, it is expected of us to be vigilant as well as prepared when disasters have called on you to do so. Today, it’s not enough to know basic precautions; we need to be ready with items that will also help us stay alive.
One thing we can easily do ahead of time to prep for the unexpected is have a supply kit on hand. Here are some of the tools that you need to prioritize in acquiring to be better equipped for an impending disaster.- Self-powered Flashlights
- Have enough self-powered flashlights with you. In any disasters that may happen, this tool will prove itself to be very useful especially when all electrical outlets are down and batteries are running low. You will need these flashlights to help you get across any dark spaces. You wouldn’t need batteries to be able to use them, some of these flashlights are powered by sunlight, and some are charged manually which are called mechanically powered flashlight which you can then charge by muscle power.
- Updated Set of Maps
- Even though you’ve been living in an area for God know how long, it would be safe to pack a set of maps other than your area. This will be essentially helpful if you have to evacuate your current area and it is easier to take note of all the routes and detours you need to take in case of emergencies.
- First Aid Kit
- First Aid Kits are a must for many types of disasters and don’t you forget it! In dire situations, this will be the most necessary tool kit to have with you. Having this is a matter of life and death and who know the outcome if you do not have one of these with you when a disaster strikes. This kit will improve your chances in survival and staying alive.Your first aid kit should have the following items: Gauze pads, cleaning agent or antiseptic, at least three (3) pairs of gloves, Towelettes, sterile dressings and bandages, Pain relievers, ointment for burns, Tweezers and Scissors, Medical Tape, Hydrogen Peroxide (this is quite useful and it is also effective in carpet cleaning), Prescription Medications and over the counter medications.
- Self-powered Radio
- Assuming that you all have your phones charged to the fullest capacity, another advantage to have with you is a self-powered radio. This is something that you will need to have since it can give you information on the current events happening during the disaster and an emergency event. Most times, your phones will fail especially in a storm since it requires communication lines depending on your location. Radios are a good tool to have at home to relay information as it will act as an emergency communication services. Usually in a calamity or disastrous event, most people rely on their radios instead of their phone for updates and news.
- Multi-tool
- Your multi-tool has the same importance as your first aid kit and most multi-tool kits include a folding knife, matches and lighters, small saw and wood saw, hole punch, Philips and flat head screwdriver, pliers, wire cutter, sturdy scissors, and duct tape.
- Batteries? Check.
- Phones charged and ready? Check.
- Clothes? Check.
- Whistle? Check.
- Copies of your personal documents and enough cash? Check.
12 Off-Grid Ways Your Grandparents Re-Used Old Newspapers (That You Should Try)
But long before the phrase “reduce, reuse and recycle” was ever coined, your grandparents used their old newspapers for a wide variety of tasks.
As you develop a more frugal lifestyle, it is time to think of all the many ways you can repurpose newspapers in your own home and garden. Here are 12:
1. Glass and window cleaner. Crimple up some newspaper and then dip it into a mixture of one part white vinegar and three parts water. You will get streak-free results that are much better than with any chemical-laden commercial window cleaner and cloth. Hint: Wear rubber gloves. The newsprint will not transfer to your windows, but it might get on your hands if you’re not careful.
2. Fire starter. Try tightly rolled pieces of newspaper as fire starters for your fireplace, bonfire or outdoor grill.
3. Seed pots. You can make your own seed pots by following these easy steps:
- Cut sheets of newspaper in halves or thirds, depending on the size of seed pot you want. Avoid pages with color because the ink contains heavy metals.
- Roll the newspaper so that it circles a glass jar or aluminum can with a few inches of paper, also extending above the opening of the container.
- Push the paper that is above the container opening inside, so that the pieces are securely wrapped around the lip of the jar or can.
- Turn the container over and gently remove the jar or cup.
- Use the bottom of the jar or can to tamp down the inverted ends, so the bottom of the newspaper pot is secure.
- Add soil and seeds, and the seed pot is ready to plant. The newspaper holds moisture so that your growing plant will not be over- or under-watered.
Discover How To Make Just About Anything … From Scratch!
5. Gift wrap. Forget store-bought wrapping paper. Newsprint works great. You can even customize your gifts by using the sports sections for sports fans, the fashion section for the fashionistas on your gift list or the Sunday comics for kids. Shredded newspaper also makes for a great filling for gift baskets or gift bags.
6. Packing. You can use your newspaper to wrap your valuables when you are moving or shipping items. It is lightweight, effective and you can’t beat the cost.
7. Liner paper. Use your newspaper to line drawers and shelves in your pantry or in your refrigerator. It will help absorb spills and odors.
8. Fruit ripener. Did you know you could hasten the ripening process along of certain fruits by wrapping them in newspaper? The next time you have under-ripe avocadoes, peaches or other fruit, give this trick a try.
9. Compost. Add strips of newspaper into your worm bin and mix well with your grass clippings. The paper helps absorb odors and makes a great bedding for your worms.
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10. Kitty litter box. Use newspaper to line you litter box. It is cheap and effective. You also can use layers of newspaper to housetrain your new puppy.
11. Shoe and boot shaper. Use rolls of newspaper in your shoes, boots and handbags to help them keep their shape between wearing or using.
12. Furniture and counter protector. Do you have a messy cooking or cleaning job to do? Place sheets of newspaper down on your work surface before you begin. It not only protects your floors and furniture from damage, but it makes clean-up a breeze.
Newspapers are printed on uncoated ground wood paper (called newsprint), which is made by grinding wood pulp without removing the lignin and other components of wood pulp.
By weight and volume, newspapers are the largest part of most curbside recycling program. Before you throw this Sunday’s paper in the recycling pile, why not first think about all the jobs you can do with it yourself?
How to make sugar from your preppers retreat garden – Stevia
http://www.prepperfortress.com/how-to-make-sugar-from-your-preppers-retreat-garden-stevia/
15 Skills That Will Make You Priceless In A Post SHTF Barter World
The concept of private barter and alternative economies has been so far removed from our daily existence here in America that the very idea of participating in commerce without the use of dollars seems almost outlandish to many people. People sometimes forget that the smallest and most convenient storage space is in their own heads. If you find yourself in the midst of a disaster and you need to either build or fix something, having the necessary knowledge and skills in your mind instead of in a book will hugely benefit your ability to survive.
http://beforeitsnews.com/self-sufficiency/2015/11/15-skills-that-will-make-you-priceless-in-a-post-shtf-barter-world-2497108.html
25 Natural Remedies For Diabetes
As you read though this list of natural remedies for diabetes, take special note of Joe’s last paragraph; it might surprise you.
Natural Remedies for Diabetes
One of the most difficult issues that the medic will encounter in a survival setting is that of chronic illness. Of these, diabetes is perhaps the most problematic. In the U.S., more than 29 million cases of diabetes were identified with more than 1 million requiring insulin therapy (type 1 diabetes). Diabetes causes damage to the heart, kidneys, eyes, extremities, and more. It is the 7th leading cause of death in the country, and that’s in normal times.What is diabetes? To understand this, you should know a little about how your body works to process food into energy. When you eat, food is turned into glucose, sometimes referred to as “sugar”. An organ in the body called the pancreas releases a substance called insulin in response. Insulin allows glucose to be used for energy.
In diabetes, this process doesn’t work due to various reasons. The pancreas may not produce enough insulin or certain factors may cause the body to be resistant to its effects (Type 2 diabetes).
We’ve discussed diabetes and survival in detail in a series of five articles some time ago; here’s a link to Part 1: Diabetes in a Collapse Situation.
In today’s article, we’ll explore some of the natural substances that may have a beneficial effect on diabetes. Alternative therapies encompass a variety of disciplines that include everything from diet, exercise, and lifestyle changes to herbal remedies, acupuncture, yoga, hypnosis, biofeedback, aromatherapy, and others.
It should be noted that a honest conversation with your medical caregiver is important before embarking on a new course of therapy. It’s also important to realize that it’s much more difficult to control type 1 (insulin-dependent) diabetes than the much more common type 2 (non-insulin dependent) with either conventional or alternative strategies.
Having said that, there are quite a few natural substances that have been put forth as being helpful in the control of diabetes . Most of these are thought to have effects on type 2 diabetics only. Unfortunately, there is a lack of hard scientific data on many, and variability exists in terms of effect on each individual.
Here are some natural substances, taken alphabetically, that may have a beneficial effect on glucose control:
Aloe Vera
Aloe may lower blood glucose in type 2 diabetics, especially when used in conjunction with some conventional oral drugs.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid
Alpha-lipoic acid is an antioxidant that helps decrease insulin resistance and the effects of kidney and nerve damage due to diabetes.
Basil
The leaf and seed of some types of Basil may help people with type 2 diabetes control their blood sugar levels. The seed may work by providing fiber which slows the elevation of blood sugar levels after meals.
Bilberry
Bilberry contains substances called anthocyanosides which improve blood flow which may prevent vessel damage caused by type 2 diabetes.
Bitter Melon
Bitter melon contains several substances, including some insulin-like compounds, that may lower blood sugars in type 2 diabetics.
Cayenne
Cayenne contains capsaicin, something we’ve talked about before as a form of natural pain relief. Indeed, capsaicin creams may improve pain due to damaged nerves in diabetics.
Gaye’s Note: See Make an Awesome Cayenne Salve for Pain Relief
Chromium
Chromium supplements improve sensitivity to insulin in those resistant to it. It’s thought to be helpful in those who are pre-diabetic and in women with pregnancy-related diabetes.
Cinnamon
Research suggests that regular intake of cinnamon may help reduce levels of blood glucose by augmenting the action of insulin.
Coenzyme Q10
Coenzyme Q10 (Co-Q10) is needed for normal blood sugar metabolism. Type 2 diabetics have been shown to have lower Co-Q10 levels than non-diabetics, suggesting that supplementation may be helpful in control.
Evening Primrose Oil
Studies have shown that 4 grams of evening primrose oil per day improves, over time, the pain associated with diabetic nerve damage.
Fenugreek
Fenugreek may improve glucose control in both type 1 and type 2 diabetics. It may even lower cholesterol in those with coronary artery disease.
Ginseng
Studies have shown that American Ginseng (there are several kinds) gives some sugar-lowering effects as well as a decrease in A1c levels (Hemoglobin A1C is a blood tests that measures long-term glucose control).
Glucomannan
Glucomannan is fiber derived from konjac root (Amorphophallus konjac). It delays stomach emptying, which leads to slower absorption of dietary sugars which results in lower glucose levels after eating.
Gymnema
Gymnema leaves were documented in studies to raise insulin levels in healthy volunteers.
L-Carnitine
L-carnitine helps you utilize fat to produce energy. When people with diabetes were given L-carnitine, high blood levels of fats decreased, including triglycerides and cholesterol.
Magnesium
Type 2 diabetics often have low magnesium levels. Magnesium supplements are thought to increase insulin production in older people with type 2 diabetes.
Mistletoe
Animal studies suggest that mistletoe can stimulate insulin secretion from pancreatic cells, which might decrease glucose levels in people with type 2 diabetes.
Onion
Onion contains allyl-propyl-disulphide (APDS), and certain flavonoids, such as quercetin (see below). APDS has been shown to prolong the effect of insulin and stimulate insulin production as well, thereby improving glucose control.
Psyllium
The fiber in psyllium may improve blood glucose in some diabetics.
Quercetin
Quercetin can help diabetics by reducing levels of sorbitol—a sugar that accumulates in nerves, kidneys and eyes of type 2 diabetics.
Vanadium
Vanadium is an element that, in preliminary studies, helped improve blood glucose levels in diabetic animals. When humans with type 2 diabetes were given Vanadium, a decrease in insulin resistance was noted.
Vitamin B1, B6, B7, B12
These vitamins are thought to be deficient in diabetics with neuropathy (nerve damage). Supplementation has been associated with improvement in related pain.
Taking Vitamin B7, also called Biotin, for two months dropped fasting glucose levels significantly in some patients.
Vitamin C
Like Quercetin, vitamin C may reduce levels of sorbitol (see above). Also, 500 mg of Vitamin C twice a day decreases loss of protein in the urine in diabetics. High levels of protein in the urine are associated with poor outcomes among those with glucose issues.
Vitamin D
Vitamin D is needed to maintain normal blood levels of insulin. The cells that produce insulin in the pancreas have receptors that accept vitamin D, suggesting that supplements might help improve sugar control.
Zinc
People with type 2 diabetes are often zinc-deficient; adding some through the diet or supplements may correct the deficit.
The above list doesn’t take into account some techniques that aren’t associated with ingesting a substance, such as yoga and acupuncture. These methods are valid options, as is strict attention to diet, exercise, and lifestyle. All these can be incorporated as a component of a holistic approach to diabetes. Again, you can expect the effectiveness of alternative modalities to vary greatly from person to person.
You might be surprised to hear my belief that, in a true survival scenario, the condition of some type 2 diabetics may not worsen and, indeed, might even improve. The restrictions that we’ll see in our diet and the increased physical exertion necessary for activities of daily survival may have a positive effect, at least from a glucose standpoint.
When the Lights Go Out: Tips and Tricks for Priming Off-Grid Light Sources
As discussed in the previous article, on primitive light sources, early humans used shells and other non-flammable objects found in nature to create the first oil lamps. Later, hand-made oil lamps were created using clay.
As human civilization progressed, so too did the oil lamp. The earliest records of mass produced lamps have been found in Egypt, Greece, and Rome and may have been the first mass produced objects in history. They were easier and safer to use than the open flame of a torch, burned more efficiently, and gave off fewer residues than candles and were refillable.Not much changed in the design until the 18th century when Aime Argand, a Swiss physicist and chemist, invented and patented the “Argand Lamp”. Like primitive oil lamps, his lamps contained a vessel in which to hold the lamp oil, but he improved upon the design by creating a cylindrical wick to give a larger surface to the wick and a glass chimney to direct the draft and protect the flame (and the person carrying the lamp!). During the middle of the 19th century, oil lamps gave way in popularity to kerosene lamps and design improvements continued. Kerosene lamps stayed popular into the 20th century, especially in places that were late to acquire the new invention of the electric light bulb.
Today, oil and kerosene lamps remain popular with those that live off the grid, collectors, and those that need an emergency back-up light source for when the power goes out.
First, the Fine Print
Before beginning a discussion on oil lamps, it’s important to talk about what you should NOT do.Do not use any of the following fuels
- Gasoline, diesel, or aviation fuel
- Coleman brand fuel
- White gas
- Paint thinner or Mineral spirits
- Rubbing alcohol
- Naphtha
- Turpentine
- Benzene
Read more about the most popular types of fuel to store for emergencies.
Be very cautious when lowering a lighted wick on the lamp. Lowering the lighted wick is sometimes used to control or reduce the flame and is a perfectly acceptable method; however, use caution that the wick stays within the grip of the cogs in the burner and doesn’t drop down into the tank.
Oil lamps use flammable fuel and should be handled with care. If your pet or dog knocks over the tableside electric lamp, you’ll probably end up with a broken light bulb, at worst. If they accidentally knock over a lighted oil lamp, the glass tank could break spilling fuel out, ignite, and cause a major fire. Always place oil lamps out of reach of little hands, wagging tails, and either species if they’re rough-housing.
If you plan on leaving your lamp stationary on a flat surface (like a shelf), museum putty works well to hold it in place. Museum putty can be found here. This is also a helpful product for areas prone to earthquakes. Modern oil lamps, when used properly, are very safe. However, accidents do happen. If you find yourself with a runaway flame or a fire from a spill, do not use water to extinguish it. Oil and water don’t mix and you’ll likely spread the flaming oil out further and cause a bigger fire. Instead, smother the flame by using a fire extinguisher specifically made for flammable liquids, smother it with dirt, or invert a metal bucket over the lamp.
How to Care for the Lamp
If you’re like me and like to pick up bargains at thrift stores and garage sales, you’ll probably need to clean your lamp before use. A dirty lamp can take years off of its usability and won’t function at its peak performance. There are two methods that work well with most lamps and lanterns regardless of the material used to construct them:PH-Down (Sodium Bisulfate) Method
This method will remove rust, crud, (and eventually paint) without removing the patina.
1. Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.
2. Mix 1 cup of PH-Down in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.
3. Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Solution for **1 day.
4. Remove the lantern, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS,)
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all the rust or tarnish has been removed.
6. Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately. Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
7. After the lantern has been cleaned, I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic ™ Metal Polish to bring out the luster. You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8. To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish. If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job. If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well. This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well. The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished. An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.
Molasses Method
This method will remove rust, crud, (and eventually paint) without removing the patina.1. Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.
2. Mix 12 oz. of Grandma’s Molasses in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.
3. Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Solution for **1 day.
4. Remove the lantern, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS,)
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all the rust or tarnish has been removed.
6. Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately. Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
7. After the lantern has been cleaned, I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic ™ Metal Polish to bring out the luster. You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8. To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish. If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job. If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well. This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well. The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished. An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.
Source
Always make sure everything is perfectly dry before adding the fuel to your freshly cleaned oil lamp. Refill the tank to the recommended level for your model, replace or trim the wick as needed, trim the wick, attach the burner assembly to the base (tank), and allow the wick to become saturated with fuel for about five minutes. If you’re using a new wick, let it become saturated for at least 30 minutes prior to lighting. Replace the chimney and you’re done!
If you use your oil lamp regularly, you’ll also need to clean the chimney frequently to remove soot build-up. Extinguish the flame, let the chimney and lamp cool completely, and wash the chimney in warm, sudsy water. Take care with temperature fluctuations and thin chimney glass. The chimney can break easily if exposed to temperature extremes.
Proper Feeding
There are several options to choose from when deciding on which fuel is best for you. Keep in mind that some fuels should not be used indoors, so check to make sure the fuel you choose is intended for indoor use only. They all have their pros and cons:Kerosene
- Before using any kerosene, verify that the flash point of the kerosene you’re using is between 124 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Dyed kerosene, or any dyed lamp oil for that matter, will eventually clog the wick and inhibit proper functioning.
- Regular kerosene, like the kind used for heating, while typically less expensive than Ultra-pure lamp oil made specifically for oil lamps (which is also a kerosene product), will also create more soot and for some, gives off an unpleasant odor.
- Heating kerosene also requires ventilation: a door should be left open to an adjoining area or a window should be left cracked open. Without proper ventilation, one risks carbon monoxide poisoning
- This is hands-down the best oil to use in conventional oil lamps. Conventional oil lamps were designed to burn petroleum-based products, not animal or vegetables fats.
- Due to the ultra-filtering, this product gives off very little fumes and soot and since it contains no dyes, it is least likely to clog the wick
- Readily available nationwide in the United States and online
- Can be scented with essential oils
- Not recommended for conventional oil lamps
- Has the potential to clog the wick
- Considered more sustainable and “greener” than petroleum-based oils
- When burned, will give off less particulate than petroleum-based lamp oils but will also produce more odors*If you would like to use plant-based oils, it’s better to use lamps designed specifically for that purpose. They have a “rope” type wick instead of the flat wick used by conventional oil lamps. Supplies to make your own can be found here
- Paraffin in the UK is kerosene. Paraffin Oil in the United States is Liquid Candle Wax , and is mislabeled for use in oil lamps and lanterns, when in fact it is only suited for Candle Oil Lamps that use small diameter (under 1/4 inch) round wick. Further, it burns only 1/2 as bright of any of the approved fuels listed above. Paraffin oil has a much higher viscosity and a flash point of 200 degrees or higher, as compared to the flash point of 150 degrees for kerosene. These differences inhibit the necessary capillary action of the wick, and will cause Lamps and Lanterns with 7/8″ or larger wick to burn improperly and erratic. Once a wick is contaminated with paraffin oil, it must be replaced in order for the lantern to burner properly. If you must use paraffin oil, it may be mixed 1:10 to 2:10 (one to two parts paraffin,) to ten parts standard lamp oil or kerosene so that it will burn satisfactorily. Source
If you’re not sure where to fill the tank on a thrift store find, allow at least one-inch headspace. This allows room for the fuel and gasses to expand and the lamp warms up. Keep your lamps at least halfway full and use indoor lamps at room temperature for the most efficient use. Very cold temperatures (under about 20 degrees Fahrenheit) can cause kerosene and lamp oils to freeze and become dangerously unstable, even when thawed. Normal room temperatures allow the gasses to expand and be burned along with the kerosene and oil itself, thus producing a more efficient burn.
Whether you choose conventional oil lamps or vegetable oil-burning lamps, they’re a great alternative to relying on electric lighting and can add a wonderful ambiance to your home. They’re also one of the less conspicuous preps for your home and can be beautifully and innocuously displayed. Stay tuned!
Helpful Holistic Organic Tips for Survival Emergency Prepping
http://www.prepperfortress.com/helpful-holistic-organic-tips-for-survival-emergency-prepping/
Some Basic Steps to Prepare for a Terror Attack- Keeping You and Your Family Safe
Most Americans are too submerged in their personal technology, or in the
vast amount of entertainment that is available to pay attention to the
important things, such as preparing for a terrorist attack and keeping
you and your family safe. Perhaps they are counting on the government to
save them in case something like this happens again, or maybe they have
already forgotten, and are back in the normalcy bias that something
like that could never happen again.
However, many people are beginning to wake up, as they finally begin to understand all is not right in our own country. A terrorist attack on the United States is not a matter of if it will happen, but when it will happen.
RELATED : Keeping Your Family Safe During a Terrorist AttackBut what can you do? What can you do right now to protect yourself and your family in the event something awful happened here again? The answers aren’t easy, and you won’t have them handed to you. Unfortunately the type of people who choose to do horrific crimes against others don’t come with instruction manuals, But hopefully, this will give you a general idea of things you can do to protect yourself, family and loved ones in case of a terrorist attack.(source)
Some Basic Steps to Prepare for a Terror Attack
Stay vigilant.
Remember that violence can happen anytime, anywhere. At your local mall, open marketplace, train station, school functions, or your office building.
Look for things and people that are out of place
For example, a suit case or brief case sitting in the middle of the food court at a shopping mall should set off alarm bells. While we are not ones to judge a person’s character by the color of their skin or ethnicity, the fact is, that modern day extremism targeting the West, in the majority of cases, originates from Arab-born individuals. It is human nature to make initial judgments based on external features, so “profiling” is something that you probably already engage in on a regular basis. If you have flown in the last eight years, and you noticed a group of what seemed to be Muslim men, chances are you already prejudged what they may or may not be. Don’t feel bad about profiling, because the fact is, all humans do it. Profiling, combined with other observations, such as looking for typical features of someone under stress like sweating, shifting eyes, and anxious behaviors could act as a potential indicator for a developing threat.
RELATED : Are You Prepared In Case of a Terrorist Attack?
Look for exits.
While there is no need to panic when going into public places, as the probabilities are still low that you would be in a target area, identifying emergency exists routes as you enter an area is one of the first things to consider. Look for secondary and emergency exits. In an emergency, chances are that the majority of those in your immediate vicinity will default to their entry point as an exist. This means that a good 90% of people will be rushing the same exit. When seconds count, and a mass of people starts to panic, you would be better served taking an alternative exit.
Prepare an evacuation route.
Similar to the point above, in the event of a city-wide or regional terrorist attack or other emergency, most people will evacuate via major highway arteries. Knowing these arteries and then avoiding them may save you precious minutes or hours as you evacuate an area that may have been hit by a chemical, biological or nuclear (tactical, suitcase, dirty) weapon.
Plan your evacuation routes now. It only takes a few minutes via online mapping technology. Either print your evacuation maps, or obtain traditional maps of your local area, region and state. One of our contributors recommended obtaining a topographical map, which unlike traditional maps, also includes back roads, small country roads and rivers.